February 24, 2014

Politically Neutral


This week, the president of Uganda signed into law the anti-homosexuality bill. While homosexual acts are already illegal here, the bill allows for life in prison in some cases. It originally had a death penalty clause that was later removed. It also originally included prison time for individuals or organizations who do not report gay people, but this too was removed in the signed bill.

For now, Peace Corps has said that the post here will remain open, but they are offering to send volunteers home who feel that they can no longer stay in the country.

As a Peace Corps volunteer, I need to remain politically neutral for my own safety and security and for the success of my work here. Therefore, I have no comment about the facts stated above. Since this is the only thing that I needed to process through writing, I have nothing else to say.

February 17, 2014

Corporal Punishment


You should know going into this that I am a sensitive person. Hyper-sensitive, in fact. If we were in the same room right now and you were feeling sad, you can bet that I’d know it and be concerned for you, whether you are total stranger or not. It’s taken me many years to be able to stay emotionally afloat while surrounded by people who are, sadly, sinking. Imagine me in a classroom with 30 little humans and their attached human drama all day every day! It took some getting used to. Now that the stage is set, let’s get to the crux of this blog post. Corporal punishment. Specifically, the use of caning in schools here.

So, here we have it. One very sensitive issue and one very sensitive human being. I struggled with how to write about this in a way that 1) fairly represents the Ugandan perspective, and 2) honestly represents my feelings. But enough beating around the bush, let’s start with the facts, shall we?

Fact #1: Corporal punishment is a part of daily life here. I’ve spent the past couple of weeks at school primarily administering assessments to fourth graders. It is, quite possibly, the most boring job in the universe, but somebody’s got to do it. While I’m saying the exact same thing 100 times in a row and using, say 1/64 of my brain power, the other, um, fraction of my brain is observing my fellow teachers and their classrooms. And what is it observing? Well, a lot of lecture and a lot of caning (hitting students with the branch of a tree). In the area where I’m situated, I easily see and/or hear at least 4 beatings a day. Now, when I interviewed the principal about this very topic, he said that the school is “moving away from caning,” and that it is seldom used. It’s quite possible that this is the truth. Maybe caning happens much more frequently at other schools, or maybe its frequency is declining at this school.

Fact #2: The Ugandan government has voluntarily signed a United Nations treaty on the rights of the child that condemns the use of corporal punishment. Most teachers (dare I say all?) know nothing about this.

Fact #3: Teachers have not been trained in any behavior management strategies to replace caning. Let’s imagine for a moment that I am suddenly told by the government that I should not teach reading using the alphabet or letter sounds or sight words. That’s it. No, “Do this instead,” just don’t do “that” anymore. What would I do? Well, I’d probably go right on teaching reading in the same way, wouldn’t you? I think that’s the boat the Ugandan teachers are in. Caning is all they know. Most teachers even agree that it doesn’t work, meaning that caning a child does not lead to a decrease in the “bad” behavior.

So, here I am, sitting outside a classroom listening to a child scream and cry as he/she is repeatedly beaten. Or, I walk into a classroom to see a teacher grabbing a child’s face, forcing it up, and slapping him while his classmates laugh. I know all of the facts above. I’ve even seen caning before in the schools in Ghana. I should be able to handle it, right? Wrong! It really, really upsets me. The bile rises in the back of my throat and I get either very angry or very sad or both. My solution, for now, is to duck out, to run home. I scream into a pillow. I sob for a few minutes. Then I clean myself up and head back to work.

When I think about this issue and others like it, I picture two pairs of glasses. One pair is the Ugandan perspective, the other is my (U.S.) perspective. I really want to see the world from the Ugandan point of view. It’s useful. It’s necessary. I need to understand the people I am living with. But I really don’t want to give up my glasses. My personal sense of morality, my culture and beliefs…they are important to me. They are part of what make me who I am. So what do I do? I was pondering this question on a VERY long taxi ride, when suddenly an image came to my mind. Permit me to geek out for just a minute…

Have you ever watched the TV show “Lost”? If you haven’t, you really should. Yes, the show devolves into a time-traveling, bloody-nosed mess in the third season, but at least watch the first season, okay? Anyway, there’s this character named Sawyer (cute dimples, good hair, from the south) and he’s getting headaches because he needs glasses, but they’re on a desert island, right? So he gets a buddy to make him some bifocals by melding half a men’s pair of square, black glasses with half a pair of women’s 1950s style glasses. (How did I mention “Lost” and not talk about Jack? Mmmm…Jack.) Are you seeing where I’m going with this? I decided that Sawyer’s glasses is what I’m aiming for: one eye seeing through a United States lens and the other through a Ugandan lens.

So where does this leave me on the corporal punishment issue? For now, I can understand why it’s still being used but I feel like it is fundamentally wrong. There. How do I look in my new glasses?

Fun Fact #1: There’s no concept of “yards” here, so in the space that would be my front yard in the U.S. I find people doing an assortment of things, like a man napping…on a mattress. Or children washing clothes and drying them on the grass. Or, my personal favorite, a grown woman using the lawn as a toilet.

Fun Fact #2: Picture an ice cream truck. Did you do it yet? Okay, now instead of a truck, picture a man riding a rusty old bicycle with a cooler strapped to the back. Can you hear the ice cream truck? Keep that same tinny, super loud, one-note sound and now make it play the theme song from “Titanic,” you know, the one with Celine Dion. Isn’t it awesome!?! It makes me laugh every time it drives by. What’s in the cooler? Wouldn’t you like to know! (And wouldn’t I—it’s driving me crazy!!!)

February 08, 2014

Waging War

I've officially been sworn in as a Peace Corps Volunteer and I'm finally getting to work in what will be my home and place of employment for the next two years!

Getting the house in a clean, livable condition was hard work! I no longer find the Ugandan custom of thanking everyone you run into on the street for their work strange. I used to think, "Why are you thanking me, I haven't done anything." I don't think that anymore. Now I think, "I HAVE worked hard today. I've worked really, really hard! Thank you for acknowledging and appreciating that!" Daily living here is a sweaty, back-breaking venture. It takes hours to haul water, wash clothes by hand, boil drinking water, buy the things you need (one day I spent nearly 3 hours trying to find a nail--a single, solitary nail), and do every other chore that's (comparatively) a breeze at home.

Part of cleaning up the house was waging an all-out war against giant cockroaches, who came as soon as the food arrived in my kitchen. I don't think I can express in words how ferociously I detest cockroaches. They remind me of a time in my life that was full of poverty and sadness. I have a very unhealthy, irrational fear of them. My list of irrational fears used to be quite a bit longer, but cockroaches are the only thing that remain. I guess it's time to cross them off the list.

In addition to scrubbing, I've spent many fruitless hours trying to plug all of the holes that enable them to just waltz right in to my house. The one inch gap under my kitchen door. The huge gaps in between the wooden panels on my window shutters. The hole in the bathroom that leads straight outside. All of the places where the windows don't quite meet the frames. The house was designed, or has devolved, into a mecca for creatures of all shapes and sizes. "Come right in," cries the house, "let me roll out the red carpet!" And so, I pulled out the duct tape and the weathering strips, the Magic Erasers (to which I could write many a love song to), the caulk, the Doom!, and every other weapon of war I brought with me or had sent from home. And I fought, my friends. I fought. And every day I would think that this time I had won the war, and every night the cockroaches would come out to taunt me. I would chase them, kill them (the big ones are dumber and slower than their smaller cousins), and literally scream things like, "WHO'S NEXT?!?" I went quite batty for awhile.

I fought in other ways too. I fought against my brain. I did countless Google searches entitled, "What's good about cockroaches?" and, "Why cockroaches are good for the environment." I imagined many a children's story about a girl coming upon a cockroach laying helpless on its back and choosing to save it. I watched "Wall-E" and tried to see his little cockroach friend as "cute." (Please note that it's very unlike me to want to kill anything. I scoot spiders aside and relocate beetles. I don't feel comfortable killing an ant.) I have tried to love cockroaches. I really, really have. It hasn't worked. I finally had to get to that place I keep coming back to, again and again...that place of accepting what I cannot change. I can't change the fact that my house is overrun by giant cockroaches. I have to accept it. And so, I've begun the slow return to sanity.

Speaking of things I cannot control, school started this week. In Uganda, school starting means that some of the teachers and a few of the students start showing up, slowly by slowly. By the end of the week, the classes were still only half full. I'm told that the children are needed at home for chores or that they just don't want to come to school yet. Matters are complicated by the fact that teachers still don't know if they're getting transferred or not, and all week, they've been waiting with baited breath to see if they will be relocated to a new school next week. Since the school typically provides housing for its teachers, being transferred also means having to move. Very stressful. They also haven't been paid yet, and they don't know when they will be paid. In the meantime, they are expected to pay school fees for their own children to attend school but can't afford them.

The other problem with the first week at my school is that there was no food. The teachers went two days without any breakfast or lunch (keep in mind that the school day for my teachers is from 8:30 A.M. until 6:00 P.M.). Worse, there was no breakfast or lunch for any of the students the entire week. These children are very often poor. Many only come to school because they get a meal, and this week they got nothing. I heard it was because the cook was sick, but I'm really not sure the reason. And so the students who came to school sat all day in hot classrooms, often without a teacher, and without food or drink. It was hard to watch. Who can blame them for staying home?

Fun Fact:
My school has a unit for the deaf and disabled. They are far and away my favorite group of people at the school.

What I'm Reading:
The Princess and the Goblins (MacDonald)****
The Princess and Curdie (MacDonald)***
Mere Christianity (Lewis)****
White Fang (London)***